We are already planning our trip back, but even though there was lots we didn't see, and Nim's car broke down (and is currently in Polokwane), it was a glorious holiday. I have decided that active holidays are the way forward. We managed to get in at least one walk a day, at least one hour long, and often 2 to 3 hours.
Madi A Thavha was our first stop. We are not sure if this means blood from the mountains, or water from the mountains, as there seem to be different interpretations. Either way, it was soul quenching stuff. This guest farm is fair trade accredited, up against the South side of the Soutpansberg, luscious, and beautifully presented. We rented a self catering cottage attached to the main lodge building. Very cute. The farm is only 10kms from Makhado/ Louis Trichardt and just lovely. From there (Makhado) we managed to get in a long walk (3 hrs ish) in the Hanglkip reserve at the top of the town of Makhado, that ended up being a surprise through indigenous forest, with a culmination up a staircase onto a valley. Really spectacular.
One day we also followed Marcelle, one of the lodge owners, to some local sculptors and crafters. Lucky who does this christian stroke venda stuff, David Murati who had some great big scupltures, as well as lots of smaller, cheaper stuff. Then the car packed in. I did manage to buy a large pot from the pot factory near Elim, which is quite an experience in itself. I made up for it by spending big at the craft shop at Madi a Thavha which benefits from Marcelle networks and great eye. She sources from all the crafters in northern Limpopo so the money ends up going to a good cause.
We managed to get a hire car and drove that to Kurisa Moya, which is always spectacular. There was a group of 8 of us for the weekend, with lots and lots of grazing, which luckily was slightly (but not entirely) offset by lots and lots of walking there too.
I will post some pics this weekend when i can lay my hands on them.
The dogs were totally blissed out, although we are still pulling ticks off them. They are in a minor depression now we are home. I know how they feel.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
nirox rocks
So we finally made it to the Nirox Art Foundation this last weekend. Blindingly hot day, gorgeous park-like gardens, a curator who gave us great insight into the art in the landscape, all meant it was a fabulous experience.
Nirox is not strictly speaking open to the public. They do, however, have open day events and this was one of them. The artists in this exhibition included Willem Boshof, Willie Bester, Strydom Van der Merwe, and Deborah Bell, amongst others (Thomas, the star man; Brett Murray; Kentridge of course).
I love this kind of landscape art. Interestingly (perhaps not surprisingly) much of it has an environmental message too - about our human footprint in the natural world. Strydom's work with dew and frost, and sticks in trees is so gentle, but very effective. His red 'bench' block placed on the grass (not so gentle) makes a very loud statement. But part of its intent is to show what happens to the grass underneath it when there's no sun.
I love Deborah Bell's work. The curator - Neil -mentioned that some people don't like the historical and classic imagery. I do. I particularly liked her sculpture of 'crossing' - which has a personal link for her to her father's death. It's a figure standing above a canoe (OK the traditional West African version, definitely not a contemporary Western canoe). And then there's a baby great dane sculpture on another (so no wonder i loved it). They are both positioned on an aqueduct which is the original one for water from/ to the river.
We heard they are planning an opera some sunday afternoon soon, with the music being performed on the lake. No doubt a very modern unusual one. I can't wait. Phew, such a relief to find somewhere beautiful in a green outdoorsy way, and inspirational in an artsy way, close to home. Enough of the urban jungle and every-increasing road rage. Now i can escape to Nirox, when they'll have me. And yes, it's very bourgeois and no, not the gritty harsh joburg we all know, but that's OK too. As one of the artists (I think it's Brett Murray) puts it on a blind which offers the pavilion overlooking the lake some shade, "pass me the cucumber sandwiches, we are having a picnic darling" or something to that effect.
Nirox is not strictly speaking open to the public. They do, however, have open day events and this was one of them. The artists in this exhibition included Willem Boshof, Willie Bester, Strydom Van der Merwe, and Deborah Bell, amongst others (Thomas, the star man; Brett Murray; Kentridge of course).
I love this kind of landscape art. Interestingly (perhaps not surprisingly) much of it has an environmental message too - about our human footprint in the natural world. Strydom's work with dew and frost, and sticks in trees is so gentle, but very effective. His red 'bench' block placed on the grass (not so gentle) makes a very loud statement. But part of its intent is to show what happens to the grass underneath it when there's no sun.
I love Deborah Bell's work. The curator - Neil -mentioned that some people don't like the historical and classic imagery. I do. I particularly liked her sculpture of 'crossing' - which has a personal link for her to her father's death. It's a figure standing above a canoe (OK the traditional West African version, definitely not a contemporary Western canoe). And then there's a baby great dane sculpture on another (so no wonder i loved it). They are both positioned on an aqueduct which is the original one for water from/ to the river.
We heard they are planning an opera some sunday afternoon soon, with the music being performed on the lake. No doubt a very modern unusual one. I can't wait. Phew, such a relief to find somewhere beautiful in a green outdoorsy way, and inspirational in an artsy way, close to home. Enough of the urban jungle and every-increasing road rage. Now i can escape to Nirox, when they'll have me. And yes, it's very bourgeois and no, not the gritty harsh joburg we all know, but that's OK too. As one of the artists (I think it's Brett Murray) puts it on a blind which offers the pavilion overlooking the lake some shade, "pass me the cucumber sandwiches, we are having a picnic darling" or something to that effect.
Monday, March 9, 2009
Magalies, It Suckies
No really. Added to the fact that I had a black hormonally-induced cloud moving in fast, we could n't find one thing or place where we a) wanted to go and b) our dogs were allowed. This is, I am afraid, testament to the suckiness of the Magalies area. I have tried now a few times since moving to Gauteng to find charming places there. Perhaps I am forever ruined by the Cape, but what's with advertising a rural luxury self catering cottage while reality is that trucks lumber past, psycho inbred dogs bark at the gate all the time (fortunately ours were a bit above it all) and a view of the neighbouring battery chicken farms (ok let's be honest, they ain't farms, they're buildings as the chickens don't exactly peck peck around the yard) pervades the landscape.
Eish.
And the one places that looks quite elegant and intriguing - the Nirox art foundation - was not open to the public.
To be fair if we had had more energy, and were sans dogs, we could have gone on a canopy tour. Maropeng and Sterkfontein caves are both worthwhile too, but i've done them. And hot air ballooning requires a certain frame of mind, and weight of wallet. I have heard there are a handful of good restaurants too. But the Magalies map has lots and lots of places and you just can't get excited by 99% of them. I don't know what it is about the place, but it lacks style.
So next time we want to weekend somewhere less than 3 hrs from Jozi we will return to Kokopelli which is well priced, and feels quite special and rural on a big property with a river and lots of bush. In short, it's a log cabin with class. Having no competition to speak of also helps.
No more expecting the Magalies to deliver a top SA experience. I'll save up for my holidays to the Cape.
Surely there's a business opportunity in here somewhere if you can face peri-urban hell?
Eish.
And the one places that looks quite elegant and intriguing - the Nirox art foundation - was not open to the public.
To be fair if we had had more energy, and were sans dogs, we could have gone on a canopy tour. Maropeng and Sterkfontein caves are both worthwhile too, but i've done them. And hot air ballooning requires a certain frame of mind, and weight of wallet. I have heard there are a handful of good restaurants too. But the Magalies map has lots and lots of places and you just can't get excited by 99% of them. I don't know what it is about the place, but it lacks style.
So next time we want to weekend somewhere less than 3 hrs from Jozi we will return to Kokopelli which is well priced, and feels quite special and rural on a big property with a river and lots of bush. In short, it's a log cabin with class. Having no competition to speak of also helps.
No more expecting the Magalies to deliver a top SA experience. I'll save up for my holidays to the Cape.
Surely there's a business opportunity in here somewhere if you can face peri-urban hell?
Monday, February 2, 2009
The spiritual healer, the anthropologist, the hairdresser and me: Tales from Kilwa, Tanzania
I guess it's probably a coincidence, but many of my favourite places start with a K: Kurisa Moya, Kokopelli, Kolkol Mountain lodge, and now, recently, Kilwa Kisiwani.
I just spent the most remarkable week in Tanzania visiting Kilwa Kisiwani. We were on what is a called a ‘mission’ - a modern day one at least, no religious overtones – to do a quick situational analysis of Kilwa Kisiwani, an old arab sea port island in Southern Tanzania.
I was advising from a tourism perspective, and was with a Kenyan colleague from the African World Heritage Fund, who was investigating what needs to happen to get Kilwa Kisiwani off the UNESCO World Heritage Site at risk list (the ruins are being affected by seawave action, and the islanders are not yet benefiting from the trickle of tourism).
We were accompanied by a senior official from the Tanzanian ministry of antiquities. John is not only a conservator, but a spritical healer and a baptist minister too. Grace, a hairdresser from Mombasa, was accompanying Jacob from the AWHF, and joined us in many of the meetings too.
Kilwa is not very touristy. Local fishermen are still active in the area, and there was a low key fishing village adjacent to the bungalows where we were staying. The beaches are gorgeous; the water warm. What makes this district not just your usual beautiful beach tourism destination is an island of ruins: Kilwa Kisiwani. (There also happen to other islands and heritage sites even less discovered- but that's for another trip).
Kilwa has layers of history starting with an Arab dynasty that built most of the amazing structures: domed mosques, palaces, etc. Then came the Portuguese and Germans. There was trade in rhino horn, gold, ivory, and sadly, a period of slave trading too (dominated by French and Omani merchants).
Despite the many colonizers over the years, the Tanzanians I met were absolutely charming to this mzungu. We met community groups including traditional food preparers, and crafters. We also met the Ruins committee from the island; and we met local and national government.
The name 'Kilwa' apparently comes from the sound the sea makes when it breaks on the shore and then retreats: Kil-wa; Kil-wa. Quite cool although don't be misled, the sea action is gentle compared to the stormy Cape of Good Hope (although obviously serious enough to be a threat to the ruins).
We stayed at Kimbilio lodge which had rustic pink bungalows practically on the beach, and the italian style food plus fresh seafood each night. Mmm...
So Kilwa is definitely up there in the list of 'must-see' places. I feel quite conflicted about the advent of tourism though. It will create jobs, but the taught skills in the area are few, and the jobs are likely to be badly paid. Often local people get menial work which means they are slighlty less poor from an income perspective, but still very poor really. Added to this, they may be moved off land (and it's not impossible they sell it voluntarily at a rate way below a market value), lose access to their livelihoods (such as fishing), and find great change afflicts their communities when 'development' arises.
I don't romanticise rural poverty, but 'development' is a double-edged sword, particularly when government and its institutions are n't robust enough to redistribute properly, or rapidly improve basic services.
So it's with uneasiness that i tell you that you have about 5 years, I would guess, before Kilwa gets on the tourist map. Let's hope that we can get some progressive and responsible business practices to take root now before the investors, and foreign tourists flock in and the treasure race is well and truly 'on'.
The reason I say 5 years: they are busy fixing the road from Dar which is the major hurdle at the moment. Only 333 kms south of Dar, the drive to Kilwa takes close to 6 hours as 60kms are unpaved and practically unpassable. Expect lots of motion sickness for those 60kms. This makes me think of what Bulungula has posted on their website, "heaven is by definition difficult to get to".
So go to Kilwa, but tread lightly.
Friday, January 9, 2009
Wonderful spots for a pet-friendly holiday
December/ January Holiday 2008/9
We had a great year-end holiday with just the right amount of travel and activity, but not too much on the go. The trip had been pre-organised to be pet friendly as the hounds joined us. Night one we stayed in Nieu Bethesda in a suite attached to the old town hall (with compost toilets nogal, luckily we are experienced after our trips to Bulungula). I was n't sure what it would be like, but it was fantastic. Rustic and charming. Nieu Bethesda is also charming. Nim managed to pop into the Owl House (i have been a few times before) and bought me an aloe in a bedpan as a Christmas gift! We thought it might have belonged to Helen Martins herself, but perhaps best not to dwell too much on that thought.
Katrin and Ian who own and run a number of properties (including our b&b) cooked for us and others at the Outsiders restaurant that night. A huge potjie of karoo lamb which did n't disappoint. The dogs could wander around the street, which is very low key, and where all animals are equal. We will be going back.
The next day we drove down to join my parents at Cape Infanta, at the mouth of the Breede River. A week was spent walking, lying on the river beach and eating. Great stuff. First time for the dogs to see the sea and they loved it too. Akira showed her usual fearlessness and had to swim back from rocks in the river, after getting carried away in her chase of a bird. So at least we know she can swim when the going gets tough!
We then drove back to Cape Town, but took the scenic route: Infanta past De Hoop Nature reserve to Bredasdorp and then on to Napier for lunch. Great little restaurant run by the Daneel family with Jean Daneel Chenin Blanc to complement the meal. Then onto Hermanus via Stanford and through to Bot River. We stayed at Kolkol Mountain Farm off the Van der Stel pass. A fynbos farm, the cottage is very swiss style with a small plunge pool, with an option to heat the water with coals, which we did one night. The farm and accommodation was really lovely, but even better were the wine estates in the area. We started off at Feteiras: portuguese style wine, where the owner spent ages chatting to us about the wine and was very friendly and generous with home made olives and not yet packaged desert wine.
Next was Luddite which is synonymous with superb Shiraz. Again the winemaker was happy to spend time talking about the wine and it (and i suppose his) journey of making it. Nim calls me a Luddite from time to time (when i advocate going local and simple). Given the wine association, I will now hold my head up high! Lunch was at Goedvertrou. We were the only guests and had a delicious simple farm meal cooked for us by the owner, who must be in or close to her eighties and still runs the farm. These sorts of personalised experiences and interactions are what made our holiday so delightful. Of course, fairly gentle but regular wine tasting helped to keep spirits high along the way too!
Simone joined us for a night at Kolkol and we had a lovely time catching up and a bit of a walk (despite regularly losing the track) on the mountain the next morning. Nim and I drove back the scenic route via Kleinmond, Betty's Bay, etc also taking in the wine of Beaumont (we liked), Wildekrantz (a bit put off by their flash, although fortunately absent, owners) and Barton (also good, but windy as hell when we there) en route. I love that Barton uses the Blue Crane in their branding and will be turning their wine box into photo album covers for our pics of the holiday.
The 6 days or so in Cape Town were a good time to catch up with family and friends, and to do a few touristy things. Christmas eve we had cousins over and the dogs were a serious hit. See the photo with Paw Paw posing as baby Jesus! and Akira looking regal with Gran.
Nim and I managed to fit in some of the best low key Cape Town things: walking along the Mouille Point promenade, lunch at Olympia in Kalk Bay ( I got in lots of trouble for spending ages in a retro clothes shop thereafter), and Cecilia forest for walks too. I also managed to squeeze in a fabulous walk with Simone and Tanya in Kirstenbosch one morning, and we caught up with the Stollof brood in Scarborough on another occassion. We joined Michelle for a gathering at a gorgeous old house in Tamboerskloof one evening too, and drank in the views of the mountain.
The way back to Joburg started in Franschhoek with lunch at Reubens. It was spot on on all counts, not too pricey and they were happy for the dogs to lie at our feet inside. They looked rather fetching against the black and white ties on the floor! The next stretch was to Montagu via the pass from Franschhoek to Villiersdrop, then cutting across to Roberston. I reckon that part of the Cape is still comparatively undeveloped from a tourism perspective and between our stay in Bot River and then the drive to Villiersdorp, it warrants more time. Such beautiful scenery and enough adventure/ activity based experiences and food/wine to keep me happy for a while.
4 nights in Montagu were spent at Keisie farm cottages. Although the cottage was unspectacular (but the price was appropriately modest and it had all we needed), the setting was really lovely on a farm about 25 kms outside montagu towards the N1. The mountain ranges around there are dramatic. And a lovely river outside the cottage, and great pool (dam) area. We did some wine tasting (yes, more) and went on a brief river trip on a sort of mini-barge. New Year's eve was spent at Templetons Four Oaks restaurant in town and was delicious. So was the Springfield 'Work of Time' red, pity about the silly name.
Probably the most disappointing part of the holiday was the last night en route home, when we stayed in Philippolis at the Green House b&b. Although the house was lovely, we found our hosts pleasant but quite stiff, and not much good at breakfast either. What was amusing were the gay mags in our room, which could n't have been more out of keeping with the copy of the New Testament or the generally conservative appearing environment. We DID manage to get a nice meal at the Lourens van der Post centre, which was most hospitable of the family running the show. But Philipolis felt depressing and dusty. Pity, because i am sure there is lots of good stuff going on, but not sure we will be back given all the other places we want to return too.
So home now, with lots of wine to help bring back the memories. The dogs have taken the return to a small garden and a minor daily walk in their stride. We are already talking about our next trip!
We had a great year-end holiday with just the right amount of travel and activity, but not too much on the go. The trip had been pre-organised to be pet friendly as the hounds joined us. Night one we stayed in Nieu Bethesda in a suite attached to the old town hall (with compost toilets nogal, luckily we are experienced after our trips to Bulungula). I was n't sure what it would be like, but it was fantastic. Rustic and charming. Nieu Bethesda is also charming. Nim managed to pop into the Owl House (i have been a few times before) and bought me an aloe in a bedpan as a Christmas gift! We thought it might have belonged to Helen Martins herself, but perhaps best not to dwell too much on that thought.
Katrin and Ian who own and run a number of properties (including our b&b) cooked for us and others at the Outsiders restaurant that night. A huge potjie of karoo lamb which did n't disappoint. The dogs could wander around the street, which is very low key, and where all animals are equal. We will be going back.
The next day we drove down to join my parents at Cape Infanta, at the mouth of the Breede River. A week was spent walking, lying on the river beach and eating. Great stuff. First time for the dogs to see the sea and they loved it too. Akira showed her usual fearlessness and had to swim back from rocks in the river, after getting carried away in her chase of a bird. So at least we know she can swim when the going gets tough!
We then drove back to Cape Town, but took the scenic route: Infanta past De Hoop Nature reserve to Bredasdorp and then on to Napier for lunch. Great little restaurant run by the Daneel family with Jean Daneel Chenin Blanc to complement the meal. Then onto Hermanus via Stanford and through to Bot River. We stayed at Kolkol Mountain Farm off the Van der Stel pass. A fynbos farm, the cottage is very swiss style with a small plunge pool, with an option to heat the water with coals, which we did one night. The farm and accommodation was really lovely, but even better were the wine estates in the area. We started off at Feteiras: portuguese style wine, where the owner spent ages chatting to us about the wine and was very friendly and generous with home made olives and not yet packaged desert wine.
Next was Luddite which is synonymous with superb Shiraz. Again the winemaker was happy to spend time talking about the wine and it (and i suppose his) journey of making it. Nim calls me a Luddite from time to time (when i advocate going local and simple). Given the wine association, I will now hold my head up high! Lunch was at Goedvertrou. We were the only guests and had a delicious simple farm meal cooked for us by the owner, who must be in or close to her eighties and still runs the farm. These sorts of personalised experiences and interactions are what made our holiday so delightful. Of course, fairly gentle but regular wine tasting helped to keep spirits high along the way too!
Simone joined us for a night at Kolkol and we had a lovely time catching up and a bit of a walk (despite regularly losing the track) on the mountain the next morning. Nim and I drove back the scenic route via Kleinmond, Betty's Bay, etc also taking in the wine of Beaumont (we liked), Wildekrantz (a bit put off by their flash, although fortunately absent, owners) and Barton (also good, but windy as hell when we there) en route. I love that Barton uses the Blue Crane in their branding and will be turning their wine box into photo album covers for our pics of the holiday.
The 6 days or so in Cape Town were a good time to catch up with family and friends, and to do a few touristy things. Christmas eve we had cousins over and the dogs were a serious hit. See the photo with Paw Paw posing as baby Jesus! and Akira looking regal with Gran.
Nim and I managed to fit in some of the best low key Cape Town things: walking along the Mouille Point promenade, lunch at Olympia in Kalk Bay ( I got in lots of trouble for spending ages in a retro clothes shop thereafter), and Cecilia forest for walks too. I also managed to squeeze in a fabulous walk with Simone and Tanya in Kirstenbosch one morning, and we caught up with the Stollof brood in Scarborough on another occassion. We joined Michelle for a gathering at a gorgeous old house in Tamboerskloof one evening too, and drank in the views of the mountain.
The way back to Joburg started in Franschhoek with lunch at Reubens. It was spot on on all counts, not too pricey and they were happy for the dogs to lie at our feet inside. They looked rather fetching against the black and white ties on the floor! The next stretch was to Montagu via the pass from Franschhoek to Villiersdrop, then cutting across to Roberston. I reckon that part of the Cape is still comparatively undeveloped from a tourism perspective and between our stay in Bot River and then the drive to Villiersdorp, it warrants more time. Such beautiful scenery and enough adventure/ activity based experiences and food/wine to keep me happy for a while.
4 nights in Montagu were spent at Keisie farm cottages. Although the cottage was unspectacular (but the price was appropriately modest and it had all we needed), the setting was really lovely on a farm about 25 kms outside montagu towards the N1. The mountain ranges around there are dramatic. And a lovely river outside the cottage, and great pool (dam) area. We did some wine tasting (yes, more) and went on a brief river trip on a sort of mini-barge. New Year's eve was spent at Templetons Four Oaks restaurant in town and was delicious. So was the Springfield 'Work of Time' red, pity about the silly name.
Probably the most disappointing part of the holiday was the last night en route home, when we stayed in Philippolis at the Green House b&b. Although the house was lovely, we found our hosts pleasant but quite stiff, and not much good at breakfast either. What was amusing were the gay mags in our room, which could n't have been more out of keeping with the copy of the New Testament or the generally conservative appearing environment. We DID manage to get a nice meal at the Lourens van der Post centre, which was most hospitable of the family running the show. But Philipolis felt depressing and dusty. Pity, because i am sure there is lots of good stuff going on, but not sure we will be back given all the other places we want to return too.
So home now, with lots of wine to help bring back the memories. The dogs have taken the return to a small garden and a minor daily walk in their stride. We are already talking about our next trip!
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Twyfelfontein
Initially i thought that this was a bit of an unpleasant name for a place - well, it is unusual - but it's grown on me. 'Doubtful spring' is the closest translation. And the spring is even more doubtful these days than 50 odd years ago when the place was 'officially' named by David Levin and his family. Hell of a tough place to live. Despite this, judging from the prolific rock art, the San clearly moved through the area regularly and returned frequently. Today the local community, as represented by the conservancy, is only approx 250 people strong.
Twyfelfontein is Namibia's only UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has been a popular place to visit for some time as is on the Namibia travel circuit. It is enscribed because of the concentratoin and uniqueness of the San rock art, much of which is engravings or etchings into the rock, not painting (as in the Western Cape, which i am more familiar with).
We stayed at Twyfelfontein country lodge which was OK. The landscapes and rock art are the main attraction, although there is some wildlife too. Unfortunately we didnt see the Ellies, but they had destroyed part of a cultural village in the making down the road a few weeks before our visit.
The rock art is impressive, and the modest visitor centre and site appealed to me. I found the constant references to snakes a bit worrying though. Apparently a cobra took up residence in the men's toilet for a couple of weeks at one point. Nature definitely rules in this part of the world.
Viewing the art is easy enough and pretty accessible. Tour guides from the local conservancy will take you on a shortish walk to see some of the more prominent displays. The lion is a famous painting, with its distinct long tale.
I would recommend not going in December as it's too hot to think. I would guess that during the cooler season, and camping, would be the best way to go. Unfortunately for some Dutch investors who had just put up a new campsite, the weather gods had not approved and when we visited roofs were off, and tents torn. Perhaps something they did to upset the ancestors?
Also check out the 'organ pipes' and 'burnt mountain', two other minor sites in the Twyfelfontein area.
Twyfelfontein is Namibia's only UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has been a popular place to visit for some time as is on the Namibia travel circuit. It is enscribed because of the concentratoin and uniqueness of the San rock art, much of which is engravings or etchings into the rock, not painting (as in the Western Cape, which i am more familiar with).
We stayed at Twyfelfontein country lodge which was OK. The landscapes and rock art are the main attraction, although there is some wildlife too. Unfortunately we didnt see the Ellies, but they had destroyed part of a cultural village in the making down the road a few weeks before our visit.
The rock art is impressive, and the modest visitor centre and site appealed to me. I found the constant references to snakes a bit worrying though. Apparently a cobra took up residence in the men's toilet for a couple of weeks at one point. Nature definitely rules in this part of the world.
Viewing the art is easy enough and pretty accessible. Tour guides from the local conservancy will take you on a shortish walk to see some of the more prominent displays. The lion is a famous painting, with its distinct long tale.
I would recommend not going in December as it's too hot to think. I would guess that during the cooler season, and camping, would be the best way to go. Unfortunately for some Dutch investors who had just put up a new campsite, the weather gods had not approved and when we visited roofs were off, and tents torn. Perhaps something they did to upset the ancestors?
Also check out the 'organ pipes' and 'burnt mountain', two other minor sites in the Twyfelfontein area.
Saturday, October 18, 2008
Swaziland trip
Just got back from 4 days in Swaziland. Well, actually, 2 days in Swaziland, one day getting there, and one day returning (really exhausting being on a slow coach - i don't envy tour groups at all). All part of a unit breakaway and business plan review session.
Swaziland is so chilled and rural despite development challenges. The Swazis we met (the professionals involved in the projects we visited) were implicitly critical of the monarchy but we were warned not to make jokes about the king or his many wives, or a colleagues' chance of being lucky number 13. I hear some of the existing wives are being treated for depression. One can't blame them: their lives involve close scrutiny by guards (although no fratenising), while hubby is off carousing with his lastest girlfriend/wife (hope he wears a condom). Even immediate families have to follow procedures to get access to their daughters/ sisters for visits. Sounds totally miserable.
Our non-coach time was spent at the Maguga Dam (see pic) and then Drie Koppies on the South African side of the Jeppes Reef border. The idea was to learn from the experiences of these dams - their relocation programmes, agreements between the two countries, institutional set ups, water management strategies, etc. It appears that the resettlement plan for affected communities has been more successful on the Swazi side, as they (the management authority) have benefitted from the experiences of South Africa (which are not altogether positive, nor altogether resolved some 10 years after construction of Drie Koppies). One of the reasons is the Swazi side had far fewer households to compensate. Bit worried that their (Maguga Dam) tourism strategy at this point involves a golf course and casino around the dam ("the private sector must lead" were the actual words spoken, and later in response to my concerns I was assured that many supplier benefits would flow to the community). Even more ammunition to finish and publish a paper on the interface between land use choices, tourism and Local Economic Development in SA.
Maguga Dam already has a beautiful look out point, and are also considering developing a backpackers lodge (thumbs ups to that suggestion!).
We stayed at Maguga Lodge on the first night, and then Piggs Peak hotel (managed by Orion Hotels) for the next two. Both were OK, not fantastic. Lunch was eaten at Matsamo cultural village one day. It is located between the Swazi and SA border posts at the Jeppes Hoek border and is one of the more successful cultural villages around. I suspect they make their money out of the merchandising and all the whistle-stop tours that pull in for lunch and a whiz around the site - which involves taking in a crocodile in a pond, from what i could tell. I did n't have a look at the accommodation on offer, but my colleagues thought it looked good (traditional style huts. No TVs was their only complaint).
Hall's country farmstall is always a good stop on the drive back on the N4, and it did n't disappoint. I could forsake the unappetising packed lunch and gnaw on game biltong and dried mango.
On the topic of food, Nim and I went to New Delhi restaurant in Village Walk last night and really enjoyed a great value buffet at R70 including na'an and rice. Will be returning.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
