Swaziland trip

Just got back from 4 days in Swaziland. Well, actually, 2 days in Swaziland, one day getting there, and one day returning (really exhausting being on a slow coach - i don't envy tour groups at all). All part of a unit breakaway and business plan review session.

Swaziland is so chilled and rural despite development challenges. The Swazis we met (the professionals involved in the projects we visited) were implicitly critical of the monarchy but we were warned not to make jokes about the king or his many wives, or a colleagues' chance of being lucky number 13. I hear some of the existing wives are being treated for depression. One can't blame them: their lives involve close scrutiny by guards (although no fratenising), while hubby is off carousing with his lastest girlfriend/wife (hope he wears a condom). Even immediate families have to follow procedures to get access to their daughters/ sisters for visits. Sounds totally miserable.

Our non-coach time was spent at the Maguga Dam (see pic) and then Drie Koppies on the South African side of the Jeppes Reef border. The idea was to learn from the experiences of these dams - their relocation programmes, agreements between the two countries, institutional set ups, water management strategies, etc. It appears that the resettlement plan for affected communities has been more successful on the Swazi side, as they (the management authority) have benefitted from the experiences of South Africa (which are not altogether positive, nor altogether resolved some 10 years after construction of Drie Koppies). One of the reasons is the Swazi side had far fewer households to compensate. Bit worried that their (Maguga Dam) tourism strategy at this point involves a golf course and casino around the dam ("the private sector must lead" were the actual words spoken, and later in response to my concerns I was assured that many supplier benefits would flow to the community). Even more ammunition to finish and publish a paper on the interface between land use choices, tourism and Local Economic Development in SA.

Maguga Dam already has a beautiful look out point, and are also considering developing a backpackers lodge (thumbs ups to that suggestion!).

We stayed at Maguga Lodge on the first night, and then Piggs Peak hotel (managed by Orion Hotels) for the next two. Both were OK, not fantastic. Lunch was eaten at Matsamo cultural village one day. It is located between the Swazi and SA border posts at the Jeppes Hoek border and is one of the more successful cultural villages around. I suspect they make their money out of the merchandising and all the whistle-stop tours that pull in for lunch and a whiz around the site - which involves taking in a crocodile in a pond, from what i could tell. I did n't have a look at the accommodation on offer, but my colleagues thought it looked good (traditional style huts. No TVs was their only complaint).

Hall's country farmstall is always a good stop on the drive back on the N4, and it did n't disappoint. I could forsake the unappetising packed lunch and gnaw on game biltong and dried mango.

On the topic of food, Nim and I went to New Delhi restaurant in Village Walk last night and really enjoyed a great value buffet at R70 including na'an and rice. Will be returning.