Twyfelfontein

Initially i thought that this was a bit of an unpleasant name for a place - well, it is unusual - but it's grown on me. 'Doubtful spring' is the closest translation. And the spring is even more doubtful these days than 50 odd years ago when the place was 'officially' named by David Levin and his family. Hell of a tough place to live. Despite this, judging from the prolific rock art, the San clearly moved through the area regularly and returned frequently. Today the local community, as represented by the conservancy, is only approx 250 people strong.

Twyfelfontein is Namibia's only UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has been a popular place to visit for some time as is on the Namibia travel circuit. It is enscribed because of the concentratoin and uniqueness of the San rock art, much of which is engravings or etchings into the rock, not painting (as in the Western Cape, which i am more familiar with).

We stayed at Twyfelfontein country lodge which was OK. The landscapes and rock art are the main attraction, although there is some wildlife too. Unfortunately we didnt see the Ellies, but they had destroyed part of a cultural village in the making down the road a few weeks before our visit.

The rock art is impressive, and the modest visitor centre and site appealed to me. I found the constant references to snakes a bit worrying though. Apparently a cobra took up residence in the men's toilet for a couple of weeks at one point. Nature definitely rules in this part of the world.

Viewing the art is easy enough and pretty accessible. Tour guides from the local conservancy will take you on a shortish walk to see some of the more prominent displays. The lion is a famous painting, with its distinct long tale.

I would recommend not going in December as it's too hot to think. I would guess that during the cooler season, and camping, would be the best way to go. Unfortunately for some Dutch investors who had just put up a new campsite, the weather gods had not approved and when we visited roofs were off, and tents torn. Perhaps something they did to upset the ancestors?

Also check out the 'organ pipes' and 'burnt mountain', two other minor sites in the Twyfelfontein area.

Swaziland trip

Just got back from 4 days in Swaziland. Well, actually, 2 days in Swaziland, one day getting there, and one day returning (really exhausting being on a slow coach - i don't envy tour groups at all). All part of a unit breakaway and business plan review session.

Swaziland is so chilled and rural despite development challenges. The Swazis we met (the professionals involved in the projects we visited) were implicitly critical of the monarchy but we were warned not to make jokes about the king or his many wives, or a colleagues' chance of being lucky number 13. I hear some of the existing wives are being treated for depression. One can't blame them: their lives involve close scrutiny by guards (although no fratenising), while hubby is off carousing with his lastest girlfriend/wife (hope he wears a condom). Even immediate families have to follow procedures to get access to their daughters/ sisters for visits. Sounds totally miserable.

Our non-coach time was spent at the Maguga Dam (see pic) and then Drie Koppies on the South African side of the Jeppes Reef border. The idea was to learn from the experiences of these dams - their relocation programmes, agreements between the two countries, institutional set ups, water management strategies, etc. It appears that the resettlement plan for affected communities has been more successful on the Swazi side, as they (the management authority) have benefitted from the experiences of South Africa (which are not altogether positive, nor altogether resolved some 10 years after construction of Drie Koppies). One of the reasons is the Swazi side had far fewer households to compensate. Bit worried that their (Maguga Dam) tourism strategy at this point involves a golf course and casino around the dam ("the private sector must lead" were the actual words spoken, and later in response to my concerns I was assured that many supplier benefits would flow to the community). Even more ammunition to finish and publish a paper on the interface between land use choices, tourism and Local Economic Development in SA.

Maguga Dam already has a beautiful look out point, and are also considering developing a backpackers lodge (thumbs ups to that suggestion!).

We stayed at Maguga Lodge on the first night, and then Piggs Peak hotel (managed by Orion Hotels) for the next two. Both were OK, not fantastic. Lunch was eaten at Matsamo cultural village one day. It is located between the Swazi and SA border posts at the Jeppes Hoek border and is one of the more successful cultural villages around. I suspect they make their money out of the merchandising and all the whistle-stop tours that pull in for lunch and a whiz around the site - which involves taking in a crocodile in a pond, from what i could tell. I did n't have a look at the accommodation on offer, but my colleagues thought it looked good (traditional style huts. No TVs was their only complaint).

Hall's country farmstall is always a good stop on the drive back on the N4, and it did n't disappoint. I could forsake the unappetising packed lunch and gnaw on game biltong and dried mango.

On the topic of food, Nim and I went to New Delhi restaurant in Village Walk last night and really enjoyed a great value buffet at R70 including na'an and rice. Will be returning.

Kokopelli

Having moved to Gauteng 4.5 years ago, I am still discovering the really cool things to do (well cool for me anyway). It takes some practice and effort to discover the best activities.

The getaways for weekends have been the biggest challenge as we haven't wanted to drive more than 2 hours or so on a friday evening in traffic. I know we are not alone there. This is the subject of many conversations with friends. Kokopelli hits all the right buttons for us. Thanks Seeraj and Tamara for the recommendation.

Aletta, one of the co-owners of Kokopelli organic farm, believes the wooden house we stayed in self-selects its guests. It's got no power, and is pretty small- though perfectly equipped - which takes out those who choose luxury on holiday and need TVs. We loved it for the fabulous farm it's set on, with walks out the backdoor over the hill to a stream and further afoot to stone circles on the mountain. On the river walk you can stop at Fairlyland and Underworlds - two spots in the shade. Fairlyland has hammocks. It's great. The stone circles were impressive, wish i knew more about these things, but perhaps next time we can spend some more time investigating and researching. Aletta offered for us to pick some veggies from their farm, but we were scared of the bees (although she had already finished harvesting the honey) and too easily distracted by book reading, lazing around, outdoor showers and the walks. Next time for that too.

Want to know what wikipedia has to say about Kokopelli:

"Kokopelli is a fertility deity, usually depicted as a humpbacked flute player (often with a huge phallus and feathers or antenna-like protrusions on his head), who has been venerated by some Native American cultures in the Southwestern United States. Like most fertility deities, Kokopelli presides over both childbirth and agriculture. He is also a trickster god and represents the spirit of music.[1]
Among the Hopi, Kokopelli carries unborn children on his back and distributes them to women (for this reason, young girls often fear him). He often takes part in rituals relating to marriage, and Kokopelli himself is sometimes depicted with a consort, a woman called Kokopelmana by the Hohokam and Hopi.[2]"

Thanks Wikipedia. What a GREAT name for an organic farm.

Best part: Kokopelli is dog friendly. So check out http://www.kokopelli.co.za/

A few more tips for Gautengers:

- WholeEarth is a company I recently discovered who picks up my waste every two weeks and recycles it. Only R40 a month, so a real bargain. Makes me feel virtuous too.
- We went with Michelle to WITS last week to hear Antjie Krog (always a win), Gabeba, Bianca and Comrade Fatso. Nice to know WITS and The Weekender are supporting poetry. A Change of Tongues is one of my alltime favourite books.

- And check out http://www.librarything.com/, if you aren't already acquainted with it.

- 2 weekends ago we tried the new coffee place (Bean There) at 44 Stanley avenue. Great coffee, we are still drinking (I know, I know, not so fresh anymore) the Tanzanian beans we got there. Yum. Salvation also didn't disappoint for lunch. Saw the french ambassador and his wife there, so i guess that's a thumb's up?!